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C.thomas Knives |
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Handcrafted from North Idaho |
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Methods, Materials and Maintenance |
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Originally starting with a 3 ft. circular saw blade or double cut band saw blade I would rough out shapes with a chop saw. Now I use a plasma cutter, only the largest heaviest blades and all Damascus blades do I forge into shape. Medium and smaller blades the stock is removed by slack belt grinding on a soft platen, this brings about the convex edge.
Note: My steel stock is from mostly new Swedish saw blanks from a local mill that shut down. Happy to say that I have the specification sheet showing that this particular steel is very similar to 1084 but with the added toughness of a little molybdenum and vanadium .
HEAT TREATING:
Larger blades are brought to just over critical temp [1550 o F]. In a reducing atmosphere forge and quenched at 125 F in vegetable oil. Depending on the blade it is either edge quenched or the whole blade is submerged.
Small to medium sized blades are brought to just over critical temp with a oxygen/propane torch and edged quenched and then left to air cool on a towel. The blades depending on their use, are tempered at 350-450 F. For one hour in a convection oven. By this procedure the resulting Rockwell hardness is 58-60 hc at 350 F.
FINGER GUARDS AND BOLSTERS:
I notch the bottom of the tang of the knife for a stop and also grind fine grooves in the tang where the guard is to be silver soldered on, making a very complete bond for the solder. Bolsters are pinned and epoxied. My favorite material to use is copper. It is hard to work with but I think the added effort is worth it. I also use brass and mild steel.
HANDLES:
On natural wood I hand rub Tru-Oil gun finish 4-8 coats depending on the wood. Bone and antler, if porous, is sealed with cyanoacrylate {super glue}. Then all handles are hand waxed 2 times with Collinite carnauba wax. Kitchen knife steel is coated with coconut oil. Note—though I always strive to use the best materials available there are sometimes imperfections in natural handle material that are outside my control.
SHEATHS:
I mostly use vegetable tanned 8-9oz shoulder leather hand sewn with a welt. Most sheaths are wet molded to fit the knife. After tooling , dying and drying they are buffed and burnished, then, 2 coats of Tandy’s Tan Kote are applied. For custom sheaths initials or a name can be added at little or no cost.
Also horizontal carry sheaths can be made upon request for most small and medium sized knives.
ETCHING:
Many of the knives have a pattern that is etched into the blade and sometimes the finger guard and butt. I think it adds to the uniqueness of the knife.
The etching process is a combination of a strong alkali solution and heat, the depth of the etch is a shallow 2 thousands to a deeper 6 thousands. Varying designs on the blade come forth which I can rarely duplicate so each knife is unique . After the etch the blade is neutralized with vinegar. On deeper etches gun bluing is applied for contrast and then hand sanded with a worn 900 grit belt. The etch truly makes for a one of a kind knife.
When I am at a show many people assume that some of my etched knives are Damascus steel. Though I do make my own Damascus steel I point out the difference between the two . Sometimes it is hard to tell the difference because a few of the etched blades look a lot like cable Damascus. The Damascus that I do make is usually made of 01 drill rod, circular saw steel (1084) The round stock is flattened and layers are then welded together with a 24 ton press. After drawing out the billet, it is then cut into 3 pieces and forged together and draw out again . This process is repeated 3 times to give a 189 layer billet, or, it is twisted after the first cycle.
Next it is forged flat again, cut into various lengths and then hand hammered into the actual blade shape.](image1594.gif)
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After using the knife just rinse well with water and towel dry before storage. Simple carbon tool steels will rust if they are put up wet. It is normal for a patina to develop on the blade because of oxidation, especially with acid foods like tomatoes. Just like our moms old kitchen knives that always worked well, the steel used in most of my knives is very similar and will turn darker with use. A bright finish can be maintained with a brass polish such as Flitz though it is not recommended with kitchen knives. If a Damascus blade appears dull it can be lightly sanded with a worn 900-1200 grit belt to brighten. Using a small piece of wet/dry sandpaper (single layer) and light pressure, use one finger under running water or a little WD40. If you use water, after drying be sure to protect the steel with a protectant. A good Carnuba car wax works great.(i.e. Collinite, Mothers). Don’t use silicon based waxes. Handles- Clean with water and mild soap. Protect with the same Carnuba based car wax. Carnuba works well on wood, antler or horn. Sheaths- wipe with a damp cloth. Let dry and wipe down with Tandy’s Tan Cote if the sheath looks dull. In really wet surroundings I like to use Snow Seal (bees wax) to protect from moisture. Letting the sheath dry for at least 24 hrs indoors is a good idea if you have been out in the rain. Of course remove the knife from the sheath when drying or putting into storage for months at a time. Need your knife sharpened or the sheath cleaned up? You cover shipping in both directions and I’ll do it at no cost. |
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Knife maintenance |
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To contact me:
Phone: 208-660-5175 |