|
C.thomas Knives |
|
Handcrafted from North Idaho |
|
|
![Text Box: Sharpening is done by stropping. I grind the majority of my blades flat and finish on a soft platen or slack belt, resulting in a full convex edge. A convex edge is the most durable of edges and also, I think the easiest to sharpen, not requiring a special sharpening device.
Table Top Strop:
All that is required is a table top, a computer mouse pad and sheet of 500 or 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Have you seen the barber sharpening his razor on a length of leather strap ? The technique is basically the same. Lay your sandpaper on top of the mouse pad next to the edge of the table. Lay the blade at approximately 20 degrees with the edge away form you. Now pull the blade to yourself with a little down pressure to depress the edge slightly into the pad. Your leading with the top of the knife, opposite of how you would sharpen with a stone, Pulling instead of pushing. Then flip your blade and lead again with the top of the knife as you push away from yourself.
With a little practice you will actually feel and hear when you are at the right angle to form the edge. If you are too steep you’ll loose your edge and if not steep enough you’ll just scratch the sides of the blade and won’t form an edge.
When you have a decent edge and you want to make it shaving sharp use the same technique but instead of a mouse pad and sandpaper just use some heavy leather that has been sanded horizontally with a 60 grit belt. Make sure your leather is flat and not curling up on the ends. Maybe contact glue it to a board.
Strop your knife at a little steeper angle with a little more pressure.
From feedback from the hunters out there who have my knives, they have been processing at least one large animal, sometimes two. After stropping just a minute or two literately, you will be able to shave the hair on your arm, and your ready for another animal. Try it , you’ll like it.
IN THE “FIELD STROP”
For a easy to use portable device, not my idea but it sure works well ! Use a 6 inch long piece of 2x2. Cut with a band or jig saw a 1..5 in. cut into each end of the 2x2. Now cut a piece of computer mouse pad to fit the top of the 2x2 [6in x 1 5/8in.] Glue it one side of the wood. Now cut your sandpaper [500-600g wet/dry] to fit the sanding block. A horizontal piece of a 8x11 sheet works perfect. Wedge a slightly bent washer between the paper and the cuts in either end of the 2x2. Glue a piece of heavy leather to the other side of the block. Sand the leather with a coarse belt (60grit) horizontally . I use my 6 x 48 sander.
When sharpening, strop on the leather at a steeper angle with a little more pressure because the leather does not “give” as much as the mouse pad . Doing so will remove any wire edge you’ve made. You will find that the sanded leather will really finish the edge. Usually just using the leather will maintain a good edge to shaving sharp. Occasionally sand the leather on your strop so it continues to bite the steel.
Remember— included with a $200. or more knife purchase is a portable strop like the one pictured above.](image1462.gif)
|
Sharpening |
|
To contact me:
Phone: 208-660-5175 |
|
( If this address does not bring up a email send box easily on your system just copy and paste my address to your own email account and send me a message. Thankyou.) |
|
Click on the Youtube heading below for a quick tutorial |
